Aroma cup

A tall narrow cup you pour tea into and never drink from. Its partner, a short wide cup, is the one you drink from. You transfer the liquid across, then smell the empty aroma cup, which holds the volatile compounds after the tea has gone. It is also one of the youngest objects in this section, by a wide margin.

Capacity
30 to 50 ml
Material
glazed porcelain
Origin
Taiwan, 1970s to 1980s
Best for
aromatic oolong, and nothing you drink out of it

What it is

The wenxiangbei, sold in pairs with a tasting cup. The aroma cup is elongated, which concentrates the fragrance and gives the volatiles a small opening to escape through slowly. Porcelain, usually, and small: this is a gongfu-scale object.

What it does to your tea

Nothing to the liquid. What it does is separate two things your nose otherwise gets at once. Warm porcelain that has just held tea releases aromatics for a surprisingly long time, and the profile you get from an emptied cup is different from what rises off the surface of a full one: lighter, and often sweeter. It is a measuring instrument for aroma rather than a brewing vessel.

What it suits

Aromatic oolong above all, which is what it was designed around: high-mountain Taiwanese oolong and dancong. It is largely wasted on a tea whose interest is in texture or in the mouth rather than the nose.

How to use one

Pour from the fairness pitcher into the aroma cup, place the tasting cup upside down on top, invert the pair, lift the aroma cup away, then smell it while you drink. Smell it again a minute later: as it cools the profile shifts, and that shift is most of what the object is for.

How to choose one

Tall and narrow, thin-walled porcelain, and matched to a tasting cup that seals against its rim. Nothing else about it matters much.

Care and cleaning

Rinse hot. Glazed porcelain, so no seasoning and no restrictions.

What people get wrong

Assuming it is ancient. Everything in a gongfu set looks like it has been there for centuries, and this one has not: the aroma cup is a Taiwanese addition from the 1970s or 1980s, introduced during a period when the Taiwanese government was actively promoting domestic tea. That is not a mark against it, and it works. But a good deal of what reads as timeless in modern Chinese and Taiwanese tea presentation was assembled within living memory, and this is the clearest example of it.

What it is made of

teabert, the tealytics teapot, keeper of the kettle
Fifty years old, not five hundred. It is still a good idea, it just has not been around as long as the set it sits in.

Sources

  • much of what reads as traditional in modern Chinese tea presentation was constructed in the twentieth century Zhang, L. (2016). A Foreign Infusion: The Forgotten Legacy of Japanese Chadō on Modern Chinese Tea Arts