Fruity

Stone fruit, citrus, dried apricot, muscatel. Fruity notes in tea are aroma, they arrive mostly after the swallow, and they are the axis where a taster's own vocabulary matters most.

Sensed as
aroma
Compounds
β-ionone, β-myrcene, β-cyclocitral, (Z)-3-hexenyl hexanoate
Rises with
oxidation, a hot short first infusion, smelling the wet leaf
Falls with
long steeps, later infusions, age and poor storage

What it is

An aroma with a wide range under one word. It runs from the bright citrus edge of a fresh green tea, through the peach and apricot of an oxidised oolong, to the dried fruit and raisin of an aged or heavily oxidised black tea. Fresh fruit and dried fruit are far apart, and noting which one you mean is worth more than the score.

Where it comes from

A mixed group of volatiles rather than one family. Beta-ionone and beta-cyclocitral contribute the softer stone-fruit notes, beta-myrcene a sharper one, and esters such as hexenyl hexanoate carry the fresher fruit character. Oxidation generates a good deal of it, which is why the same leaf tastes green when unoxidised and of dried fruit when fully worked.

Which teas show it

Darjeeling second flush, where the muscatel character is the tea's whole reputation. Oriental Beauty, where insect damage in the field triggers the plant's own aroma response. Many oolongs at medium oxidation, black teas from Yunnan and Fujian, and aged white teas, which move toward dried fruit as they sit.

How to turn it down

Longer steeps, later infusions and age. Aromatics go first, so a fruity tea kept for two years in a bag on a shelf will read much flatter.

How to turn it up

Hot water and a short first infusion, as with all aromatics. Oxidised teas take boiling water without penalty, so there is little reason to hold back. Give the wet leaf a smell between infusions: the fruit is often clearer there than in the liquor.

What it gets confused with

Floral, and the two genuinely overlap in the middle. Also confused with sweetness, which is the more consequential mix-up: a tea that smells of apricot is scored sweet by most drinkers even when there is very little actual sweetness in it. Holding your nose for one sip separates them cleanly.

What people get wrong

Assuming fruit notes mean the tea has been flavoured. Muscatel in a Darjeeling and honey-peach in an Oriental Beauty are the leaf, the cultivar and the processing, with no additive involved. The other mistake is treating one word as enough. Fresh peach and dried raisin are both fruity and they tell you almost opposite things about how the tea was made.

If this is your problem

teabert, the tealytics teapot, keeper of the kettle
Write down which fruit, not just that there was one. Fresh peach and dried raisin mean different things about the leaf.

Sources