Autumn

Autumn is the picking taken as the weather cools and growth slows again after summer. It is the year's aromatic harvest: in Taiwan and Fujian the autumn oolongs are sought out specifically for their fragrance, and in the Indian estates the autumnal is the round, gentle end of the season.

Window
September to November
Vocabulary
The plain seasons
Growth
Slowing, on a spent bush
Cup
Fragrant, smooth, less body

The tea year

Typical windows, not dates. Every one of these moves with the weather, the latitude and the year: the pages say by how much.

Winter crosses new year, so its window is drawn as two bars.

What it is

The pickings made between the end of the summer heat and the onset of winter dormancy. What it means in practice varies more by region than any other term here. For Chinese and Taiwanese oolong it is a genuine speciality with its own following; for Darjeeling and Assam it is the autumnal or third flush; for puerh it is the second of the two harvests that matter, and gushu autumn material is a category of its own.

When it happens

September through November in the northern hemisphere, closing when the cold stops growth. In Yunnan the autumn picking follows the end of the summer rains and the leaf is notably drier and more concentrated than the rain-swollen summer material that preceded it.

What it does to the leaf

Cooling weather and weakening light slow growth, so the balance moves back toward amino acids and away from catechins, but the bush has spent the year and is not drawing on winter reserves the way it does in spring. The characteristic result is aroma without weight: autumn leaf is often more fragrant than spring leaf and less thick, which is precisely the trade Taiwanese oolong drinkers make on purpose.

What it tastes like

Fragrant and smooth, with less body than the spring picking and less bite than the summer one. Autumn Tieguanyin and autumn high-mountain oolong are prized for a floral aroma that lifts more freely than the spring version's does. Autumn puerh is typically sweeter and thinner than spring material. Across styles the pattern is more nose, less mouth.

How to read it on a label

This is the one calendar season that is often printed as a selling point rather than omitted as a confession, and where it appears on a Chinese or Taiwanese oolong it is usually meant. Qiu xiang, autumn fragrance, is a specific claim about aroma. On a puerh, autumn material is standard information and its absence is more notable than its presence. On an Indian tea, expect the word autumnal instead and read the third flush page.

What people get wrong

Buying autumn oolong expecting spring's body, or spring expecting autumn's aroma, and concluding one of them is worse. They are a deliberate pair and plenty of drinkers keep both. For puerh the mistake carries a cost: autumn material is generally cheaper for good reason when the tea is meant for long ageing, because the thinner leaf has less to develop over decades.

Teas defined by this picking

Where this term is used

More in this tradition

All harvest seasons

teabert, the tealytics teapot, keeper of the kettle
Autumn is the season tea smells best and weighs least. Great for oolong, great for drinking now, less obviously great for a cake you're planning to forget about for twenty years.