Yellow

Yellow tea is a Chinese style distinguished from green by a post-fix step called men huan (sealed yellowing), in which the still-warm, lightly damp leaf is covered and allowed to transform slowly over hours or days. This mellow step drives off some of the harsh grassy volatiles in green tea, producing a smooth, clean, and distinctly mellow liquor that does not taste like green and does not taste like anything else. Genuine production is small and concentrated in a few regions: Junshan island for Silver Needle, Meng Ding mountain in Sichuan, Huo Shan in Anhui. Much of what is sold as yellow tea either skips the yellowing step entirely or does it imprecisely, making sourcing from verified producers the central purchasing challenge.

teabert, the tealytics teapot, keeper of the kettle

Yellow is the rarest seat at the table: green tea that took an extra slow, sealed nap and woke up softer and rounder. Sadly a lot of what wears the name skipped the nap entirely, so I treat trustworthy sourcing as half the pleasure.

Families

Classic yellow

All recognized yellow teas come from a small number of specific Chinese localities, and the production volume for each is genuinely limited. Junshan Yinzhen comes from Junshan island in Dongting Lake, Hunan; Meng Ding Huang Ya comes from Meng Ding Mountain in Sichuan; Huo Shan Huang Ya comes from Huo Shan county in Anhui; Mo Gan Huang Ya comes from Zhejiang. The sealed-yellowing step (men huan) that defines the category and produces its characteristic mellow, clean sweetness is labor-intensive and easy to skip; much of what is labeled yellow tea skips it. The entire family is here because there is only one family: genuine yellow tea is one tradition in multiple localities, not a broader type with subgroups.

6 styles in this family

Junshan Yinzhen, Meng Ding Huang Ya, Huo Shan Huang Ya …